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Description
Review by: David Schildknecht
Wine Advocate: Issue 179, October 2008
Piquant smokiness, toasted hazelnut, and peach mark the nose of Donnhoff’s 2006 Grauburgunder trocken. Those themes – rich pit fruit, toasted nuts, and smoke – follow on a palate of expansive, glycerin-richness, satisfying fullness, but alcoholic restraint and a sense of lift. A salty note in the finish invigorates the palate and complements the rich peachiness, peach kernel bitterness, and toasty nuttiness. Enjoy this over the next 5-7 years.
“I was amazed when the 2006s tasted as good as I had said they might become,” says Helmut Donnhoff. “It turned out what we vintners always said about Riesling – that’s it’s ideally suited to our clime – is true. I guess I didn’t really didn’t believe that in quite complete seriousness. I ran around the cellar like a crazy man, tasting back and forth” in excitement as the quality of this latest collection became evident. Sample it starting almost anywhere, and you’ll be a believer, too. “If there is one vintage I could compare with this, it would be 1971 as I remember it, with this perfect tension between acid and sugar, this clarity, a bit of botrytis but not stinky, completely clear and mineral, structured, architectural.” In the 21 years I have been visiting him, I have never known Helmut Donnhoff to permit himself such superlatives. “We set the record, harvesting everything in two weeks,” he adds. Trying to handle so many sites needing so much selection in so short a time “was close to the limit, and we managed it only because I have really good people” picking.
Wine Advocate: Issue 179, October 2008
Piquant smokiness, toasted hazelnut, and peach mark the nose of Donnhoff’s 2006 Grauburgunder trocken. Those themes – rich pit fruit, toasted nuts, and smoke – follow on a palate of expansive, glycerin-richness, satisfying fullness, but alcoholic restraint and a sense of lift. A salty note in the finish invigorates the palate and complements the rich peachiness, peach kernel bitterness, and toasty nuttiness. Enjoy this over the next 5-7 years.
“I was amazed when the 2006s tasted as good as I had said they might become,” says Helmut Donnhoff. “It turned out what we vintners always said about Riesling – that’s it’s ideally suited to our clime – is true. I guess I didn’t really didn’t believe that in quite complete seriousness. I ran around the cellar like a crazy man, tasting back and forth” in excitement as the quality of this latest collection became evident. Sample it starting almost anywhere, and you’ll be a believer, too. “If there is one vintage I could compare with this, it would be 1971 as I remember it, with this perfect tension between acid and sugar, this clarity, a bit of botrytis but not stinky, completely clear and mineral, structured, architectural.” In the 21 years I have been visiting him, I have never known Helmut Donnhoff to permit himself such superlatives. “We set the record, harvesting everything in two weeks,” he adds. Trying to handle so many sites needing so much selection in so short a time “was close to the limit, and we managed it only because I have really good people” picking.
Additional Information
| Volume (ml) | 750 |
|---|---|
| Country | Germany |
| Region | Nahe |
| Varietal | White Blend |
| Type | White Wine |
| Robert Parker | 90 |
| Body | Medium |
| SKU | 4260031856267 |
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