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Description
Review by: David Schildknecht
Wine Advocate: Issue 179, October 2008
The 2006 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs reveals concentrated yellow plum, white peach, and citrus, wreathed by basil, licorice, and pungent smokiness, and underlain by nut oils, meat broth, hints of fruit pit bitterness, and an implacable slab of stone. The ripeness is more evident as a sense of weight (although the finished alcohol stayed just under 13%) and there is a deep richness as well as cool restraint to this wine’s entire performance. The finish is bound to leave you quiet and contemplative, and it will be worth contemplating (and periodically re-visiting) for at least another 15 years.
“I was amazed when the 2006s tasted as good as I had said they might become,” says Helmut Donnhoff. “It turned out what we vintners always said about Riesling – that’s it’s ideally suited to our clime – is true. I guess I didn’t really didn’t believe that in quite complete seriousness. I ran around the cellar like a crazy man, tasting back and forth” in excitement as the quality of this latest collection became evident. Sample it starting almost anywhere, and you’ll be a believer, too. “If there is one vintage I could compare with this, it would be 1971 as I remember it, with this perfect tension between acid and sugar, this clarity, a bit of botrytis but not stinky, completely clear and mineral, structured, architectural.” In the 21 years I have been visiting him, I have never known Helmut Donnhoff to permit himself such superlatives. “We set the record, harvesting everything in two weeks,” he adds. Trying to handle so many sites needing so much selection in so short a time “was close to the limit, and we managed it only because I have really good people” picking.
Wine Advocate: Issue 179, October 2008
The 2006 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs reveals concentrated yellow plum, white peach, and citrus, wreathed by basil, licorice, and pungent smokiness, and underlain by nut oils, meat broth, hints of fruit pit bitterness, and an implacable slab of stone. The ripeness is more evident as a sense of weight (although the finished alcohol stayed just under 13%) and there is a deep richness as well as cool restraint to this wine’s entire performance. The finish is bound to leave you quiet and contemplative, and it will be worth contemplating (and periodically re-visiting) for at least another 15 years.
“I was amazed when the 2006s tasted as good as I had said they might become,” says Helmut Donnhoff. “It turned out what we vintners always said about Riesling – that’s it’s ideally suited to our clime – is true. I guess I didn’t really didn’t believe that in quite complete seriousness. I ran around the cellar like a crazy man, tasting back and forth” in excitement as the quality of this latest collection became evident. Sample it starting almost anywhere, and you’ll be a believer, too. “If there is one vintage I could compare with this, it would be 1971 as I remember it, with this perfect tension between acid and sugar, this clarity, a bit of botrytis but not stinky, completely clear and mineral, structured, architectural.” In the 21 years I have been visiting him, I have never known Helmut Donnhoff to permit himself such superlatives. “We set the record, harvesting everything in two weeks,” he adds. Trying to handle so many sites needing so much selection in so short a time “was close to the limit, and we managed it only because I have really good people” picking.
Additional Information
| Volume (ml) | 750 |
|---|---|
| Country | Germany |
| Region | Nahe |
| Varietal | Riesling |
| Type | White Wine |
| Vintage | 2006 |
| Robert Parker | 94 |
| Body | Full |
| SKU | 790451 |
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